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Showing posts with label how to control nematodes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to control nematodes. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 22, 2016

Understanding Nematodes and What to Do

Nematodes are microscopic roundworms found everywhere but quite common in managed soils. A fertile soil may contain billions per acre. Most don’t cause plant damage. The ones that do are called plant parasitic nematodes because they feed and rely on the energy and nutrients derived from plants.
Some parasitic nematodes are beneficial such as the so-called entomopathogenic nematodes that parasitize insects. They parasitize many different types of soil insects including so-called “grubs” like white grubs and other larvae of butterflies, moths, beetles, and flies. Some parasitize adult crickets and grasshoppers as well. These can be found marketed under several different trade names.
One of several products that use beneficial nematodes
Nematodes are not a huge problem in most turf and landscapes. Some may never encounter them. But when they are present, they draw a lot of attention because they are difficult to control. Nematode damage falls into that category of “out of sight out of mind”. But once plant damage from nematodes is identified, they are no longer “out of mind”.
Root knot nematode on tomato
There are two primary groups of nematodes that concern us in horticulture; those that feed upon plant roots and those that feed on plant foliage. Those that feed on plant roots live their entire lives in the soil. Those that feed on plant foliage spend most of their time above ground, feeding on leaves and succulent stems.
Root knot nematode on mulberry
Most nematodes do not just attack one type of plant but might feed on a number of different plants. Generally speaking, nematodes that feed on plant roots can damage turfgrass, ornamentals, nursery plants, houseplants or tropicals and greenhouse plants. Nematodes that feed upon plant foliage are, for the most part, restricted to ornamentals, nursery and greenhouse plants.
Sometimes we discover soil dwelling, plant parasitic nematodes when infested roots are exposed during soil preparation. The most common soil dwelling nematode is the root knot nematode. They leave behind root nodules or “swellings” on the roots.
But most of the time we see above ground plant symptoms which cause us to inspect the roots. Aboveground clues to a nematode attack to the roots include leaf yellowing and scorching, leaf drop and poor or stunted growth.
Mulberry infested with root knot nematode but kept going with plenty of water, compost and fertilizer
Sound familiar? Nematode damage can be confused with nutrient deficiencies, drought, salt problems, root damage, under or over fertilizing and plant disease.
However, depending on the type of nematode, root damage may vary from the presence of galls to the stunting and decaying of roots. In some cases, nematode damage might be confused with root disease.
Types of root damaging nematodes include the stunt nematode, lesion nematode, ring nematode, cyst nematode, spiral nematode, and lance nematode which produce other symptoms. These include shortened or stubby roots, malformed roots that are multi-branched, darkened or browning lesions which resemble plant disease which frequently accompanies nematode damage.
Damage from nematodes that feed on foliage are easier to identify since plant symptoms are easier to directly trace back to nematodes. This type of damage frequently occurs in greenhouses. Why? Nematodes need a moist environment to survive and spread. The higher humidity of greenhouses and the presence of surface water on plant leaves contribute to these types of nematode problems.
Most references refer to the presence of “angled lesions” that result from the feeding of foliar nematodes. Perhaps a better description than “angled lesions” is “brown spots on newly attacked leaves that are not round but longer than they are wide”. In advanced stages, severely attacked leaves may turn brown and die which masks the presence of these lesions. In cases like this, search for leaves that are more recently attacked to verify these “angled lesions”.
Nematode damage to turfgrass is common in warm climates and may resemble some turfgrass diseases, soil compaction, nutrient deficiencies, herbicide injury among others. Symptoms from nematode damage may gradually enlarge as much as three feet per year. Machinery that comes in contact with soils, such as aerators and hand tools, may spread nematode infestations with equipment. A common symptom occurring due to nematodes is a lack of a response from applied fertilizers.

How to control nematodes?
Nematodes are nearly young impossible to eliminate using traditional pesticides without killing infested plants. Prevent nematodes from entering the property through exclusion. Most problems develop when soils, composts, soil mixes and plant materials are brought in from unreliable sources. Reduce the spread of nematodes through sanitation. Clean equipment and tools between worksites that have been in contact with infested soils.
Recognize that the presence of nematodes is not always bad. In the past, the general recommendation was to improve plant and soil health so that plants “grow ahead” of their damage. There is quite a bit of evidence that increasing soil organic matter through the use of compost and organic surface mulches, particularly in arid and desert soils, helps keep nematodes in check.
It is thought that compost from organic matter stimulates micro and macroorganisms antagonistic to parasitic nematodes. A population of nematodes antagonistic toward plant parasitic nematodes is an important tool used to keep undesirable nematode populations in check.
Amendments with a low carbon/nitrogen ratio (C:N of 20:1 or lower) seem to be the most effective types of organic matter for keeping nematodes in check. For low organic matter content soils, such as arid or desert soils, there is a direct relationship between controlling nematodes and the nitrogen content of the soil due to additions of compost or chemical fertilizers.
North America is estimated to be the largest market for nematicides; pesticides aimed specifically to control or kill nematodes. Nematicides sales are predicted to dominate the agrochemical industry from 2015 to 2020. That’s the size of our problem.
Chemical control of nematodes is becoming more difficult because of environmental problems associated with their application. There is one traditional pesticide that remains available for nematode control. This product, Nemacur, an organophosphate pesticide, is being phased out. Only the remaining inventory on shelves will be sold. When this inventory is gone, there will be no other traditional pesticides available for use against plant parasitic nematodes.


Bob Morris is an independent consultant for ViraGrow, Inc.
This article appeared in Southwest Trees and Turf, a regional trade magazine.


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Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Avoid Nematodes With This Simple Gardening Method

Container gardening uses a wide assortment of plastic, ceramic and wooden containers to hold the growing medium for plants. If the growing medium, or soil, becomes contaminated or exhausted of nutrients and is no longer productive, it is easier to  rectify the problem in the soil or, in some cases, simply dispose of it and start all over.

Tomatoes growing in 5 gallon nursery containers
Such is the case with nematodes.Once garden soils become contaminated with nematodes they are next to impossible to get rid of.

Nematodes damage on tomato roots
Soils in containers isolate problems from the garden. Soils can become contaminated because of chemicals, damaging nematodes and noxious weeds that are difficult to control. It is just plain easy to garden in containers.

Here are some simple guidelines to follow when growing plants in containers.

  1. Pick a container that is large enough for the plant or plants.  5 gallon nursery containers are about the smallest container I would want to use in our climate. Containers should have holes at the bottom to allow water to drain. Our climate is hot and dry in the summer and there is not enough soil in small containers to hold the water needed by plants throughout the day. Secondly, soils in small containers heat up rapidly during the summer months.
  2. Sanitize the inside of the container before planting. One of the best sanitizers is a 10% solution of Clorox in water. A 10% solution can be made with one cup of Clorox combined with 9 cups of water. Make sure the Clorox solution is in contact with the inside of the container for at least two minutes. Make sure the container thoroughly dries in the open air before planting. Another great disinfectant is our warm, dry air. A hair dryer on the hot setting does a pretty good job of sanitizing as well. More information on Clorox bleach
  3. Use good quality planting soil. Plant health is directly related to the environment where it lives and how it is managed. Unless you are experienced with gardening and soil management, it is best to use a manufactured soil medium. Fill the container with the soil medium and water it thoroughly to settle the soil. Do not put gravel, rocks or shards of clay pots at the bottom of the container to improve drainage. They will not do that. Irrigate until water comes out of the holes at the bottom of the container. Remove or add soil until the top of the soil is about 1 inch below the top of the container.
  4. Reduce the heat load of the containers. Nursery containers are usually black in color. In our intense sunlight these nursery containers can transfer a lot of heat to the soil inside the container. If these containers are in full sun all day long, the soil can get quite hot and damage the roots of plants growing in it. It is best to either change the color of the container to white by painting it or put the container inside an outer container so that it is shaded. If you choose to put a container inside another container, put a layer of pea gravel at the bottom of the outer container so the inner container is elevated above any standing water and does not get lodged in the outer one.
    Pepper growing in 6 gallon nursery container with mulch
Did you know that Viragrow sells a variety of soils for different purposes. These soils can be purchased in bulk or you can load them into your own bags. Viragrow makes the best soils in southern Nevada!